![]() I tried multiple door handle operations inside and outside. I tried spraying WD40 or aerosol liquid lubrication into accesible areas. The lock indicator went up and down electrically/electronically via the actuator but the door would not open. the passenger door seixed and could not be opened by internal or external handle. I had this problem with our 528i E39 1996. Hope this helps, good luck.ĭoor won't open door will not open insside or outsde If the door completely dead locks this is probably the only way that you will get the door to reopen to make repairs. ![]() The cost was under $AUD100 plus the cost of a second hand lock mechanism (BMW quoted $800 for the part and time, approximately $AUD1100 all up). I understand that they had to cut and chisel the old mechanism out, destroying it, to release the door. They were able to get the mechanism out without cutting the door frame and replaced the the unit with the second hand one I bought. I purchased a second hand door mechanism and took the car to a smash repair shop as I expected they would know how to get parts apart and have the tools to cut open car parts after an accident. In the end I came to the conclusion that the mechanism was broken and would require replacement. I tried a number of different suggestions as described in various forums however nothing worked. ![]() I have a 1994 320i (E36), the drivers door would not open from either the inside or outside it was like the door mechanism was deadlocked. Try practising with a door you can open first so you get the feel of it.E36 Drivers Door won't open from Inside or Outside Lubricate the lot and keep using the door as I suspect it was seized by moiture or disuse and became stuck as the locking pin that you can feel delatch when you slowly open the door latch with either handle with the door open and using a finger to reset the latch each time. Maybe it also teaches the other jammed door what you want it to do? these cars are getting old and probably imprinting on the owners mentality, so be nice to it ) Try practising with a door you can open first so you get the feel of it. You cannot put it back in the hole in the door metal unless you take it apart as the two parts and put the base in before the cover. At first I levered out the whole port hole cover but found I should have done it as a two step process. Make sure you pull out the inner oval like section on this port hole as it comes out and then if you want to you can pull out the outer part of the port hole. I sprayed al parts with WD40 and removdd the little opening cover next to the lock on the normally concealed door edge to access into the lock area. Then I used my finger to operate the door lock clasp instead of closing the door again, and opened and closed the mechnism with both door handles many times to ensure it was working. You can manipulate the inside and outside door handles while doing this trying to open the door.įinally it opened, no damage! I did scratch the window tint a liitle bit because i used a hacksaw blade but no big deal. After a while of doing this and feeling around with the tool. I used a hacksaw blade as a thin stiff insert between the window wound down and fully open and the inside rubber seal to get down to the locking mechanism at the rear of the outside door handle - thst is where you aim for, and then move the tool around feeling for a lever you can push down that is a mechanism that is springy and you can move. BUT then I found this and it worked for me. I read about making a hole in the door lining to break up the actuator and the risks with the air bag (DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST AND LET THE CIRCUIT DISCHARGE FOR 15 MINUTES BEFORE MAUCKING ABOUT WITH THE EXPLOSIVE AIRBAG!!!), but was reluctant to do this but it seemed the way to go. I tried thumping against the inside and outside of the door to unjamb it.
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